When Traditional Spirits Meet Street Theatre: A Sunday with the Sidros of Valdesoto
By Debra Rissmann
The first time I witnessed the Sidros of Valdesoto, I wasn't quite sure what I was watching. It was a crisp January morning, and I'd arrived early at the small church grounds in this village of barely 2,000 souls, nestled just ten minutes from both Oviedo and Gijón. What unfolded before me felt like stepping into a time machine part ancient ritual, part community theatre, and entirely, wonderfully Asturian.
This year's celebration drew record crowds according to Celso Roces of El Cencerru association, with hundreds packing the church field so densely that the crowd spilled onto the surrounding roads proof that this ancient tradition is more alive than ever.
The scene began quietly enough. A few dozen locals gathered around a makeshift performance area in front of the church, steam rising from cups of hot cider and coffee against the winter air. Then came the sound that would stay with me long after I'd returned home: the rhythmic jangling of bells echoing through the morning stillness, growing closer with each passing moment.
The Magic of Les Melenes
When the Sidros finally appeared, bouncing and leaping down the village streets, I understood immediately why this tradition has captivated people for centuries. These enigmatic figures, dressed entirely in white with red sashes, their faces hidden behind red masks and crowned with spectacular sheepskin hoods called "les melenes" topped with fox tails and colorful ribbons, moved with an otherworldly energy. The mission of each "sidro" is to jump and make the bells ring, advancing with a small trot that causes the long, loose hair of the sheepskin to sway gracefully.
Their playful mischief is part of their ancient role, I watched one Sidro "borrow" a visitor's scarf for an impromptu dance before returning it with what seemed like a wink behind that mysterious red mask. This interaction with the crowd isn't just entertainment; it's a continuation of age-old customs where Sidros would greet village girls by touching their faces with fox tails as they passed.
What struck me most was how these mysterious figures seemed to exist between worlds, part animal, part human, part spirit of the mountains themselves. According to historian Juan Uría Ríu's theory, these characters originate from primitive rituals "where clan members sought either the protection of totemic animals by disguising themselves with their skins, or the fertility of people". Standing there watching them leap impossibly high on their hazelwood poles, I could feel the weight of that ancient connection to something primal and essential.
But the Sidros are only half the story. After they've gathered their crowd with their hypnotic dancing and bell-ringing, the real entertainment begins: Les Comedies, perhaps the most deliciously subversive theatre you'll find in all of Spain.
These satirical popular theatre performances are traditionally critical and mocking of local events, and I quickly discovered that no one from local politicians to national figures is safe from their sharp tongues. The 2025 performances tackled everything from AVE train delays to Siero's peculiar "Smurf obsession," with the adult comedy "Pitufando la Comedia" delivering particularly sharp social commentary that had the locals roaring with laughter and occasionally gasping at the audacity of it all.
The tradition, documented since 1857, follows a three-generation structure: children (Escolinos), youth (Xuventú), and adults each present their own comedies. This year saw hundreds gathered in the church square, with men traditionally playing women characters the hilarious "viejas" in drag being a particular crowd favorite, poking fun at authority figures in true carnival spirit.
The comedies have been documented since at least the 16th century in both rural and urban environments as part of acts associated with various festivities. What makes them special is their complete lack of fixed staging any outdoor place where there were spectators would do. It was common to perform them in the church field after mass, or in front of taverns that paid for the comedy.
What fascinates me about this tradition is how it serves as a pressure valve for the community. These winter masquerades represent ritualized inversions where the normal social order is momentarily reversed, like a distorted mirror of reality. For one morning each year, the young men of Valdesoto can say absolutely anything to anyone, protected by masks and the sanction of tradition.
From Cider to Celebration
Interestingly, the name "sidros" is unique to Siero and Bimenes elsewhere in Asturias, they're known as "guirrios." According to folklorist Fausto Vigil, the term "sidro" derives "from the excessive fondness for cider of the young men who formed the troupes, who spent on that drink whatever their work as comedians produced." Whether this etymology is accurate or not, it certainly captures something essential about Asturian culture: the central role of cider in community celebrations.
The alternative theory suggests "guirriu" comes from the Latin GUERRIRE, meaning "to jump with joy, to frolic" a clear reference to their leaping function. Either way, both names perfectly capture the dual nature of these characters: earthly revelers and spiritual messengers.
The Poet Farmer Who Changed Everything
The comedies I witnessed weren't improvised street theatre, but carefully crafted dramatic works. The most famous and prolific author of these comedy scripts was José Noval Siero Martínez, born February 3, 1856, in Castiello (Valdesoto), into a farming family. Known by the nickname "Siero," he lived his entire life in his native village, dedicating himself to agricultural and veterinary activities, achieving great renown in the latter profession.
Among his comedies performed in Valdesoto in 1900, we can highlight a complete work titled "Saynete para representar once personas el Socialismo" and "Hoy día 8 de diciembre," which dealt with socialism, associations in Workers' Centers, and the need to free oneself from employer exploitation. This wasn't just entertainment, it was social commentary wrapped in humor, addressing the real concerns of working-class Asturians in an era of rapid change.
His works reflected real social tensions of the time. In 1887, a group of six to seven hundred demonstrators, including miners from Areñes, Valdesoto, and Carbayín, gathered at Siero's Town Hall carrying banners with the slogan "Peace and down with consumption taxes," demanding the suppression of this tax. Noval's comedies gave voice to these struggles through satire and humor.
What I find remarkable about Noval is how he transformed an ancient ritual into a vehicle for modern political thought, proving that tradition doesn't have to mean stagnation. His plays tackled contemporary issues while maintaining the essential spirit of the masquerade, showing that the best cultural preservation involves evolution, not mere repetition.
A Tradition Reborn
Like many rural customs, the Sidros tradition faced near extinction in the modern era. The arrival of the Civil War and subsequent prohibition of carnival were responsible for the disappearance of these cultural manifestations. The tradition experienced four distinct epochs: the original ancient period, a golden age from the late 19th century to 1936 featuring José Noval's authored works, a period of sporadic revival attempts from the 1950s to 1991, and finally the complete recovery beginning in 2004.
The third period saw heroes like Luis Rodríguez "Asaura" and Nieves Noval attempting to keep the flame alive, but with only relative success. Then, in a remarkable turn of events, the discovery of seven original José Noval manuscripts in the 1980s by Latin teacher Vicente Rodríguez Hevia sparked renewed interest and provided the foundation for the modern revival.
As celebrated today, the festival was recovered in 2004, thanks to the efforts of a group of young people from the Valdesoto parish, organized around the Association for the Recovery of the Sidros and les Comedies "EL CENCERRU". Since then, their purpose has been to preserve what they consider one of Asturias' most spectacular traditions.
The revival tells us something important about contemporary Asturias. Currently, the "sidros y comedies" have managed to combine several meanings and ethnic associations that feed back into each other, constituting both a symbolic and identity expression of the local Valdesoto community while also transcending this framework to identify with the Siero municipality and the supra-local Asturian sphere.
More Than Just a Show
In 2019, the tradition was officially declared a Cultural Heritage Asset, recognizing its significance as living culture rather than mere historical curiosity. Standing in that church courtyard, watching children laugh at jokes that probably wouldn't be out of place in a 16th-century performance, I understood why.
The Sidros tradition has even gained international recognition, with the group representing Asturias at the International Iberian Mask Festival in Gaia, Porto, and at Zamora's Festival de la Máscara in 2022, showcasing Asturian culture on prestigious stages while maintaining its deeply local roots.
The Sidros represent something increasingly rare in our globalized world: genuine community expression that emerges organically from place and people. The "sidros" within the comedy have very specific functions: they go ahead giving great leaps, greeting the village girls and announcing that the comedy is coming. They later collect money and maintain order in the circle that forms around the comedy.
There's no entrance fee, no gift shop, no tourist infrastructure at all, just neighbors gathering on a cold Sunday morning to share something that belongs entirely to them. The performers don't seek fame or profit; at the end of the performance, the comedians collected the money thrown by the public and with it organized a good dinner for everyone.
Practical Information for Visitors
When to Visit: The main celebration occurs on the Sunday following Epiphany (January 6th) each year, known as "Domingo de Sidros y Comedies." The performances begin at 12:30 PM, after mass concludes, in the Campo la Iglesia (church field). In 2025, this falls on January 12th.
Getting There: Valdesoto sits conveniently at the heart of Asturias, just 10 minutes by highway from both Oviedo and Gijón via the A-64. For those preferring public transport, take the train to El Berrón station, which is just a pleasant 1km walk to the village. From our apartments in Arcenoyu, it's roughly a 30-minute drive through beautiful Asturian countryside.
What to Expect: Each year typically features three comedy performances representing different generations: children (Escolinos), youth (Xuventú), and adults. Recent performances have included contemporary works addressing current events alongside traditional pieces. The entire event is conducted in Asturian dialect, but the physical comedy and audience reactions make it entertaining even for non-speakers.
Cost: Free, but toss a few euros for the aguinaldo to support El Cencerru association.
What to Bring: Warm layers (January's chilly), sturdy shoes for muddy paths, a thermos of hot coffee, a picnic lunch, a camera for those vibrant Sidro costumes, and a foldable chair for comfort.
Accessibility Considerations: The church field is relatively flat but can become muddy in January weather. There's limited seating available, so consider bringing a foldable chair for comfort during the performances.
Related Events: Throughout the holiday season, the Sidros also collect aguinaldo (traditional Christmas donations) by visiting various villages throughout the Siero parish, spreading the celebration beyond just the main January event.
Practical Tips: There's usually a tent serving traditional cider and hot apple juice, but no food vendors on-site.
Insider Tip
"Get there by 11:30 AM to catch the Sidros' street parade it's the best way to feel the festival's energy. Pack a thermos of hot coffee and a sandwich, as there's no food on-site. For a post-festival bite, head to Sidrería Mayorazu in Pola de Siero for fabada that warms the soul."
Official Sidros y Comedies Website - El Cencerru Association's official site
Asturias Tourism - Sidros Festival - Official tourism information
Cultural Heritage Ministry - Sidros y Comedies - Intangible Cultural Heritage listing
Museo del Pueblo de Asturias - Museum with Sidros exhibits and José Noval manuscripts
Festival de la Máscara Ibérica - International mask festival featuring the Sidros
José Noval Digital Archive - Complete digital collection of comedies (PDF download)
Sidrería Mayorazu - Traditional restaurant in Pola de Siero
Debra brings over 25 years of hospitality expertise to Asturias Vacations, combining her passion for authentic travel experiences with deep local knowledge. As our cultural storyteller, she uncovers the hidden narratives that make each Asturian destination extraordinary - from ancient traditions to contemporary culinary innovations. When not exploring remote villages or testing the latest restaurant recommendations, Debra can be found in our Arcenoyu apartments, planning the perfect itineraries for guests seeking genuine Asturian experiences.
