Following the River: My Hike to 18 Ancient Mills in Asturias
When I first moved to Asturias, two local friends introduced me to what they called "the real Asturias" by taking me on a hike along the Río Profundu. With their twin boys and my energetic daughter in tow, we discovered what has since become one of my favorite places in northern Spain, a river valley dotted with ancient water mills that feels worlds away from the region's more famous beaches and mountains.
The "Ruta de los Molinos del Profundu" (officially designated PR-AS-137) follows the course of the Río Profundu (Deep River) through a lush valley between Valbúcar in Amandi and Buslaz in Breceña. For visitors who might be more accustomed to beach holidays, alpine hiking, or exploring open landscapes, this enclosed, intimate forest experience offers a welcome contrast, a chance to experience a different kind of nature immersion where the rewards come not from sweeping panoramas but from detailed, close-up encounters with both natural and human history.
Hiking past the waterfall.
What makes this route special isn't just its natural beauty but the remarkable concentration of water mills that line the riverbanks, silent witnesses to centuries of agricultural tradition. One of the most enchanting aspects of this trail is how the mills appear at relatively short intervals, many just 200-500 meters apart, creating a rhythm to our journey, each new discovery pulling us forward to see what lies around the next bend.
Along this 7.5-kilometer stretch, you'll discover up to 22 water mills, most dating from the 18th and 19th centuries, though some foundations likely go back centuries earlier. Now in various states of picturesque decay, these mills once formed the industrial backbone of rural Asturias. Among them, Molín d'Arriba stands as one of the best-preserved, offering visitors a clearer view of the original milling mechanism.
What fascinates me most is the sophisticated engineering achieved with such basic materials. Each mill cleverly diverted water from the main river through small channels (called caces) that directed flow to wooden wheels connected to grinding stones. The precision required to build these systems with nothing but local materials and hand tools seems almost impossible by today's standards.
According to José, a 92-year-old village elder whose eyes light up when speaking of the old days, most operated on a cooperative basis. Over coffee one afternoon, he told me how families from surrounding farms would bring their grain, primarily wheat, rye, and corn and pay the miller with a percentage of the flour produced. "Those millers," he said with a chuckle, "they knew everyone's business," explaining how they became central figures in community life, often serving as informal bankers and mediators in disputes.
Historical records show that of the 18 mills, 13 operated under what locals called a "vecería" system, where neighboring families shared milling rights and responsibilities. The other nine were privately owned, requiring payment of a "maquila" a portion of the flour produced to the mill owner. These mills bear evocative names tied to local families or features: Molín de Griselda, Molín del Pitu, and the spectacular Molín de La Peña with its 5-meter waterfall. One particularly innovative mill, Molín de José Xico, was even adapted to generate electricity for the nearby settlement of Cayao a remarkable early example of hydroelectric power in rural Asturias.
By the 1950s, industrialization had rendered most of these mills obsolete. The last one ceased operation in 1964, José tells me, after which they were gradually abandoned to the elements. This decline coincided with broader rural depopulation across Asturias, as younger generations migrated to urban centers. What we see today represents the slow reclamation of human constructions by nature a process I find both melancholy and beautiful.
The Trail Experience
The path follows a gentle but continuous incline as it winds its way upward toward Buslaz, with an average gradient of about 6%. The total elevation gain of approximately 675 meters is spread over such a distance that most reasonably fit hikers won't find it overly challenging. About halfway through the outward journey is what I consider the route's highlight, a stunning waterfall cascading over moss-covered rocks at Molín de La Peña, creating a natural amphitheater of sound and beauty. This spot makes for a perfect rest stop, photo opportunity, and picnic location.
What constantly amazes me is how the route changes character with the seasons:
Spring offers its own charm with wildflowers carpeting the forest floor and birds in full voice, I've counted 17 different species during a single April morning. The magnificent royal ferns (Osmunda regalis) unfurl their prehistoric-looking fronds to impressive proportions.
Summer provides welcome shade and moderate temperatures even when Villaviciosa swelters.
Autumn (late September through November) transforms this trail into a fantasy landscape, with golden light filtering through multicolored leaves and mushrooms sprouting from every surface. The mills themselves, already atmospheric, take on an almost mythic quality when surrounded by fall colours.
Winter reveals architectural details of the mills normally hidden by vegetation.
If photography motivates you (as it does me), the magic hour is unquestionably early morning, when mist often hangs in the river valley, creating ethereal scenes as sunlight gradually penetrates the canopy. I've found the best light between 7:30-9:00 AM, depending on the season.
What to Pack:
Waterproof hiking boots (absolute non-negotiable)
Trekking poles (especially for muddy descents)
Water (minimum 1.5 liters)
Substantial picnic for the waterfall area
Camera with wide-angle lens (for mill interiors) and polarizing filter (reduces glare on wet surfaces)
Extra socks (water always finds a way in)
Basic first aid kit
Mobile phone with downloaded map (coverage is spotty at best along the river)
Essential Information
Starting Point: The route begins in Valbúcar (Amandi), about 7.9 kilometers from Villaviciosa. Take the AS-255 (Villaviciosa–Infiesto) and look for limited roadside parking near the trailhead by the impressive stone entrance to Quinta La Vega, an estate known for its organic kiwi production since 1986. The trailhead is located near a bridge over the Profundu River, which serves as a helpful landmark.
Family-Friendly Alternative: If bringing children or seeking a shorter experience, drive to El Cierrón blueberry farm about 2km into the route. Besides offering exceptional berries in season, the owners are accustomed to hikers and generally allow parking if asked politely.
Distance and Duration: The full route covers approximately 15 kilometers round-trip (circular route) or 14 kilometers (out-and-back) and typically takes around 5 hours including stops for photos, exploration, and lunch.
Difficulty: Moderate. While not technically challenging, the consistent mud, occasional stream crossings, and cumulative elevation gain (about 675 meters with an average 6% gradient) make this more demanding than raw statistics suggest.
After Your Hike
After your adventure, I recommend visiting Casa Cortina in Amandi , where the hearty fabada pairs perfectly with their house-made cider (which is also available for purchase), or El Zaguan de Pusaki for more refined takes on Asturian classics. Both require reservations.
As development pressures mount throughout Asturias, routes like this face an uncertain future. While officially designated as a PR (Pequeño Recorrido or Small Route) hiking trail, maintenance remains minimal, and ongoing preservation of the mills themselves is largely non-existent. Several structures that were reasonably intact when I first discovered this route have deteriorated significantly in just five years.
This slow-motion disappearance of agricultural heritage isn't unique to Rio Profundu, it's happening throughout rural Spain as younger generations migrate to cities and traditional knowledge fades. Each collapsing mill represents not just a loss of picturesque scenery but the erasure of cultural memory.
So please take only photographs and memories, try to minimise your impact, stay on the paths and if you see some rubbish please bring it home with you.
