Why Visit Playa de las Catedrales?
Playa de las Catedrales (Galician: Praia das Catedrais) is one of those natural wonders whose full beauty is revealed only under the right conditions. Its dramatic rock arches, caves, and tunnels, sculpted by wind and ocean over millennia, earn it a “natural monument” designation.
Things you need to know:
But not all visits are equal. To truly appreciate it, you need:
Low tide: the rock formations and caves are only accessible when the sea recedes.
Advance permission / reservation: from 1st July to 30th September access is regulated and you must obtain a free permit via the Xunta de Galicia website.
If you skip one of those steps, you’ll be frustrated.
How We Did It (and What We Learned)
Planning & Booking Ahead
We planned our visit for end of September. It was still busy coaches parked, people milling around but not overwhelming. No long lines, and we walked straight in.
Because we booked in advance (via the Xunta de Galicia permit system) we avoided any access issues. The permit is free, but during July, August and around Semana Santa, it’s mandatory.
When you make the reservation, you'll get a QR code or authorization to present at the access point.
Why go at low tide:
A good rule of thumb: aim to arrive a bit before low tide, and leave when it starts rising. In practice it gives you a 2–3 hour window of the best access. You cannot see the rock formations at high tide so make sure you do check the tides.
Luckily, we’d put on shorts and reef shoes (water shoes) so we could explore freely without slipping or getting wet clothes. Many visitors in regular shoes are limited to harder-packed sand zones and can’t reach the best sections.
The Experience
We stepped down from the access point (a staircase), flashed our permit (QR) at the gate, and descended into wonder. The rock arches soared over us, tunnels beckoned, caves waited to be explored. It felt like walking inside a cathedral made of stone and sea.
At times the sea crept in, reminding us to keep one eye on the tide. But the light, the shapes, the echoes all of it was magical.
Lunch & Riverside Pause in Ribadeo
After the beach, we drove back into Ribadeo for a leisurely lunch. It’s a lovely town to stroll, explore, and refuel before sending my friends onward and heading home to Arcenoyu.
Ribadeo has a mix of cafés, seafood restaurants (try the pulpo), and cozy corners. For us, it was the perfect interlude: salty sea air followed by warm plates and good conversation. We found a modern Indian restaurant and really enjoyed it. Called Chulapita Street Food, it is just off the main square in Ribadeo.
Tips & Practical Advice
Check the tide chart for the day of your visit. Many websites (and apps) list tides for Playa de las Catedrales.
Book your permit early, especially between June and October. Use the Xunta de Galicia portal (Ascatedrais) to reserve.
Wear reef shoes / water sandals, not flip-flops or regular sneakers.
Arrive before low tide and leave before the sea encroaches.
Respect the access rules and safety don’t wander into unstable rock overhangs or stray from designated paths.
If you can, visit outside peak season or midweek to avoid crowds.
Bring your permit (QR code) either printed or on your phone it will be scanned.
Why It’s Worth the Trip
Yes, it takes time to reach (especially from Asturias), but Playa de las Catedrales is one of those jewels you’ll remember long after. The power, the silence, the surprise corners that vanish with rising water those moments stay with you.
And bonus: doing it with friends feels extra special. The laughter echoing in a sea-carved tunnel, the little explorations off the beaten path, the shared delight in what nature can create.
If you’re ever traveling in northern Spain and want to combine Asturias + Galicia, this is a route I’d be thrilled to recommend.