Eastern Coastal Asturias: The Perfect Base Nobody Tells You About
🔗 Real Stories, Local Secrets, and Slow Travel in Northern Spain.
There's a particular morning rhythm you fall into in eastern coastal Asturias that feels impossible anywhere else in Spain. You wake to soft light filtering through a stone casa window. By 9 AM, you're walking La Isla’s tide pools, exploring dramatic rock formations with maybe three other people on the entire beach. Lunch is impromptu: a sidrería in Villaviciosa where the local at the next table insists you try the cachopo (trust them). By 3 PM, you're winding up mountain roads toward Infiesto, watching the coast disappear behind you as the Picos de Europa rise ahead.
This isn't an ambitious itinerary. From Villaviciosa and Colunga, this is just... a Tuesday.
The Geographic Secret Most Travellers Miss
Here's what nobody tells you about planning a trip to Asturias: the best base isn't where you think.
Most travellers make one of two mistakes:
Stay in Gijón: Great urban beaches, but also tourist crowds and expensive hotel parking.
Stay in Oviedo: Wonderful for tapas, but you're a 60-minute drive from anything truly wild.
Stay deep in the Picos: Stunning mountains, but you're landlocked and isolated from the coast.
The smart move? Plant yourself in the Villaviciosa-Colunga corridor. Here, you can access everything from one calm, authentic base, living the rhythm of the region instead of just passing through.
Where is the best place to base yourself in Asturias for beaches and the Picos?
The Villaviciosa–Colunga corridor. You’re 10–20 minutes from multiple wild beaches and about 45–75 minutes from the Picos—one calm base, minimal driving. Browse all our restored Asturian homes → | Explore Casona Azul Lue – just 10 minutes from Lastres, La Isla & La Griega beaches → | Discover Casita Xana at Arcenoyu – a peaceful rural retreat 15 minutes from Villaviciosa →
Is Villaviciosa or Gijón better as a base for day trips?
Gijón is vibrant but urban (traffic/parking). Villaviciosa is quieter, closer to wild beaches, and offers faster access to mountain trailheads.
What's Actually Within Reach:
From this strategic pocket of the coast, your days can unfold with incredible variety.
BEACHES (5-30 minutes):
Playa de Rodiles (10 minutes from Casona Azul, 25 minutes from Arcenoyu)
Playa de La Isla (10 minutes from Casona Azul, 25 minutes from Arcenoyu)
Playa de La Espasa (15 mins from Casona Azul, 35 minutes from Arcenoyu)
Villaviciosa Estuary (15 mins from Casona Azul, 20 minutes from Arcenoyu)
Playa de Vega (20 mins from Casona Azul, 40 minutes from Arcenoyu)
Lastres cove (15 mins from Casona Azul, 30 minutes from Arcenoyu)
MOUNTAINS & HIKING (30-75 minutes):
Cangas de Onís (40 mins from Casona Azul, 50 minutes from Arcenoyu)
Covadonga Lakes (60 mins from Casona Azul, 1.5 hours from Arcenoyu)
Parque de Redes (60 minutes from Casona Azul, 60 minutes from Arcenoyu)
Ruta del Cares Trailhead (70 minutes to trailhead)
CULTURE & CITIES (20-40 minutes):
Traditional sidrerías (15 mins)
Oviedo's UNESCO churches (39 mins from Casona Azul, 35 minutes from Arcenoyu)
Gijón's seafront promenade (25 mins from Casona Azul, 35 minutes from Arcenoyu)
Tito Bustillo caves (25 mins from Casona Azul, 43 minutes from Arcenoyu)
Lastres (10 minutes from Casona Azul, 31 minutes from Arcenoyu)
Tazones (23 mins from Casona Azul, 28 minutes from Arcenoyu)
How long are the drives from Villaviciosa to Covadonga Lakes and Ruta del Cares?
Covadonga Lakes ~75 minutes; Ruta del Cares trailhead ~70 minutes. That’s a beach morning plus a mountain afternoon from one base.
Translation: You can surf world-class waves in the morning and hike beside glacial lakes by afternoon. One base. Minimal driving. Zero tourist chaos.
The Beaches: Asturias's Most Spectacular Coast
This stretch of coastline holds a collection of beaches that remain wonderfully wild and uncrowded, and even in high summer you can usually find a park and a spot for your towel.
Which beaches near Villaviciosa are best for families?
Playa de Vega: Plenty of space, gentler waves on calm days, and easy access.
Villaviciosa Estuary: Calm, protected water perfect for paddling with children.
La Isla (at low tide): A natural playground for tide-pool exploring
Where can I avoid crowds in August on the Asturian coast?
Aim for La Isla and La Espasa during early mornings or late afternoons. They remain far quieter than any Mediterranean resort.
Playa de Rodiles
This is the beach Asturians don't really want you to know about. Rodiles is a sweeping crescent of golden sand backed by the Villaviciosa estuary, a protected nature reserve. On a given Tuesday in June, you'll see maybe 40 people, most of them local surfers who have been riding these waves since they were kids.
Why it's special: It offers consistent surf, a protected dune ecosystem, and almost zero commercial development. The single beach bar serves simple tortilla de patatas and cold Estrella. That’s the vibe.
Insider tip: Park at the far end near the estuary mouth. A ten-minute walk west will often lead you to an entire section of sand you can call your own. Bring a picnic,the lone chiringuito has limited hours and is often closed in winter.
When is the best time to surf in Asturias if I’m a beginner? Weekday mornings on small-swell days in late spring and summer at Rodiles. Ask us for trusted local surf instructors → Rodiles Surf
Playa de La Isla
If Rodiles is the local surf secret, La Isla is the region’s most photogenic shore. Dramatic limestone cliffs frame a wild beach where the tide creates temporary rock pools filled with tiny fish and crabs. The rock formations jutting from the sand look like something from a fantasy novel. During golden hour, you’ll understand why Asturian photographers obsess over this place. For a different perspective, follow the Camino del Norte coastal section, which passes nearby.
Why it's special: Its rugged beauty, powerful winter waves, and relative solitude make it a haven for walkers and photographers.
Insider tip: A small hiking trail along the cliff edge connects La Isla to the next cove. It’s a 20-minute walk with incredible views that most visitors never find.
Playa de La Espasa
La Espasa is what happens when you combine raw beauty with complete solitude.
This is a wide, flat beach with golden sand and powerful surf. No services. No formal parking lot. Just the sound of waves and wind. It's the kind of place where you realize you’ve been staring at the horizon for twenty minutes without a single thought. It’s a highlight on the family coastal walk to Arenal de Morís.
Why it's special: Pure, untouched coastline. Popular with serious surfers and people who want to feel like they’ve discovered something nobody else knows about.
Insider tip: This beach is for strong swimmers only, as there are no lifeguards and currents can be serious. For beach walking and wave watching, however, it’s unbeatable.
Villaviciosa Estuary
Villaviciosa Estuary
Not technically a beach, but essential to understanding this area’s magic. The Villaviciosa estuary is a protected natural reserve where freshwater rivers meet the Atlantic. It's one of northern Spain's best birdwatching spots and perfect for kayaking, paddleboarding, or kitesurfing in calm, protected waters.
Why it's special: When the Atlantic is too rough, the estuary offers a safe haven for water sports. It’s your go-to for wildlife over waves.
The Mountains: Picos de Europa Without the Crowds
Here’s the thing about the Picos de Europa: most people stay in the mountains, which means the best access point gets overlooked. From Villaviciosa and Colunga, you're 45-75 minutes from Spain's most spectacular hiking, but you're not trapped there.
Can I see the Picos de Europa without staying in the mountains?
Yes, base yourself on the coast, day-trip in for an epic hike, and be back in time for a sunset swim….you can see 3 different mountain ranges from Arcneoyu - Picos de Asturias, Redes and Sierra de Suave.
Do I need to book shuttles for Covadonga Lakes in summer?
Yes (July–September). Parking is restricted; take the convenient shuttle from Cangas de Onís. Follow this link for more information including where to park and how to purchase your tickets.
Covadonga Lakes
Two glacial lakes, Enol and Ercina, sit at 1,100 meters in a moonscape of limestone peaks. This is the iconic Picos image you’ve seen on Instagram.
What to know: Access is restricted in summer, requiring a shuttle bus from Cangas de Onís. This is a good thing, it limits crowds and preserves the pristine feel of the area.
The hike: Walk the easy one-hour circuit between the lakes or tackle the moderate three-hour round trip to the Mirador de Ordiales for jaw-dropping views.
What’s the easiest Picos hike with big views near Villaviciosa? The Lakes circuit (easy, ~1 hour) for iconic scenery; Mirador de Ordiales (moderate) for jaw-dropping vistas.
Ruta del Cares
This is Spain's most famous gorge hike: a 12-kilometer trail carved into vertical limestone cliffs, following the Cares River through a dramatic canyon.
What to know: This is not a casual walk. It's stunning but also narrow, exposed, and crowded in summer. Go early or go in the autumn.
Best approach: Start at Poncebos. Hike 3-4 kilometers in to experience the best views, then turn around to avoid the full 12 km commitment and afternoon crowds.
Is Ruta del Cares suitable for kids? It’s exposed, long and recommended that they kids are at least 12 years old. Try a 3–4 km out-and-back from Poncebos for the dramatic cliffs without committing to the full 12 km.
Culture, Food & Authentic Asturian Life
The best part of basing yourself here isn't just geography, it's that you're in the thick of actual Asturian life.
Sidrerías: The Heart of Asturian Culture
If you come to Asturias and don't visit a traditional sidrería, you've missed the point. These are cider houses where locals gather to drink natural Asturian cider (sidra), eat mountains of food, and socialize loudly. Villaviciosa is the cider capital, and any place filled with locals is the right one.
What to order:
Cachopo: Imagine two generous veal cutlets, crisp and golden, hugging layers of melting cheese and smoky jamón. Sliced open, it oozes warmth, Asturian comfort on a plate, and plenty to share (or not).
Fabada: Indulge in a steaming bowl of silky white beans simmered with chorizo, morcilla, and tender pork, each spoonful rich with the depth of slow-cooked tradition. It’s as much a ceremony as a meal, the kind that lingers with you long after the last bite.
Tortos con picadillo: Lightly fried corn cakes, rustic and satisfyingly crisp at the edges, topped with spicy, paprika-laced sausage. Every bite delivers a happy collision of textures and a smoky kick, best paired with a cold pour of local sidra.
Where can I try fabada without tourist menus in Oviedo? Skip the cathedral strip; walk five minutes into residential streets and look for small bars with handwritten menus.
Medieval Villages: Lastres & Tazones
Lastres: An impossibly photogenic fishing village cascading down a hillside to a small harbor. Come for lunch at a place like Native Restaurant and walk it off exploring the maze of streets. The nearby Faro de Lastres lighthouse offers stunning cliffside views.
Tazones:
A tiny coastal hamlet where Emperor Carlos V first landed in Spain. Its colorful houses and small harbor are full of charm. It's also near some of the region's famed dinosaur footprints.
Local Markets & Food
The weekly markets are where the culture comes alive. Visit the Villaviciosa Market on Wednesdays or the Colunga Market on Thursdays to buy artisan cheese, local honey, and produce. It's a key part of finding great organic food in Asturias.
A Guide for All Seasons
Winter (Dec-Mar): Best for serious surf, solitude, and cozy sidrerías. The snow-capped Picos are stunning from the coast.
Is Asturias good in winter for a surf + hike trip? Yes, powerful swells and empty trails; bring waterproof layers.
Spring (Apr-Jun): The landscape explodes with wildflowers. It’s perfect for hiking on snow-free trails and long beach walks without the crowds.
When are wildflowers at their peak in Asturias? Late May–June across coastal meadows and lower Picos.
Summer (Jul-Aug): The warmest, most festive season. The Atlantic is finally swimmable, and every village has a fiesta. For a family treat, try blueberry picking near Villaviciosa.
Are August beaches crowded like the Med? Busier, but still calmer; go early/late at La Isla or La Espasa.
Autumn (Sep-Nov): September is many locals' favorite month—still warm, but the summer crowds are gone. October brings golden light, empty mountains, and food festivals.
When is mushroom season in Asturias? October—look for market specials and menus featuring wild setas.
Practical Tips
Getting There & Around
Fly into Asturias Airport (OVD). A car rental is essential to explore efficiently. Roads are excellent, but mountain routes can be winding.
Where to Base Yourself
Choose Villaviciosa for more services or Colunga for a quieter, small-town charm. For true peace and privacy, opt for a restored rural property between the two.
Do I need a car in Asturias to combine beaches and mountains from one base? Strongly recommended for flexibility.
Where to stay in Asturias without a car? Central Villaviciosa, with taxi access to nearby coves; still, a rental opens everything up.
What to Pack
Always bring a rain jacket, layers for changing temperatures, and good walking shoes.
Where should I stay in Asturias for a week if I want “beach mornings, mountain afternoons”?
The Villaviciosa–Colunga corridor. Browse our restored homes in Villaviciosa & Colunga →
Why We're Telling You This
We moved to central coastal Asturias because we kept coming back as travelers and eventually couldn't leave. There's a rare feeling here, the way the mountains meet the sea, the absence of crowds, the sense that people live here first and tolerate tourism second.
We run a small collection of restored properties near Villaviciosa and Colunga, designed with the character we sought as travelers: authentic, comfortable, and deeply connected to place. Our properties hold Guest Favourite status on Airbnb because we live here, we love this region, and we care about getting it right.
We wrote this guide because we want you to discover what we did. We want you to spend a week moving between beaches and mountains from one calm base, to order cachopo and watch locals pour cider from a height, and to realize that the best part of Spain might be the part nobody talks about.
How many days do you really need in Asturias to feel the rhythm? 7–10 days is the sweet spot; 5 days is the minimum. See available dates →
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Asturias Vacations is a local travel brand rooted in community. We host guests in beautiful, sustainable homes and share the stories that make this region unforgettable. Explore our stays: View Vacation Rentals | Email us: hola@asturiasvacations.com
Meet Your Author - Debra Rissmann
Debra brings over 25 years of hospitality expertise to Asturias Vacations, combining her passion for authentic travel experiences with deep local knowledge. As our cultural navigator, she uncovers the hidden narratives that make each Asturian destination extraordinary, from ancient traditions to contemporary culinary innovations. When not exploring remote villages or testing the latest restaurant recommendations, Debra can be found at our Arcenoyu apartments, planning the perfect itineraries for guests seeking genuine Asturian experiences.
Frequently Asked Questions
Where is the best place to base yourself in Asturias for both beaches and the Picos?
The Villaviciosa–Colunga corridor: 10–20 minutes to multiple beaches and ~45–75 minutes to the Picos. One calm base, minimal driving. See stays in Villaviciosa & Colunga →
Villaviciosa vs. Gijón—what’s better as a day‑trip base?
Gijón is vibrant but urban (more traffic/parking). Villaviciosa is quieter, closer to wild beaches, and faster to the mountains.
Which beaches near Villaviciosa are best for families?
Playa de Vega (space, gentler days), the Villaviciosa estuary (calmer paddling), and La Isla at low tide for tide‑pool exploring.
How crowded are Asturias beaches in August compared with the Mediterranean?
August is the busiest month, yet still far calmer than the Med. Go early mornings or late afternoons at La Isla or La Espasa.
Can I surf in Asturias as a beginner? When?
Yes. Try Rodiles on small‑swell days, especially late spring–summer weekday mornings. Local instructors →
Do I need a car, or can I manage without one?
A car is strongly recommended to combine beaches and mountains easily. Without a car, stay central in Villaviciosa and use taxis for nearby coves.
How far is Covadonga Lakes from Villaviciosa? Do I need the shuttle?
~75 minutes by car. July–September requires a shuttle from Cangas de Onís due to parking restrictions.
Is Ruta del Cares suitable for kids?
It’s exposed and long. A family‑friendly option is 3–4 km out‑and‑back from Poncebos for the cliff views without the full 12 km.
What’s the best month to visit Asturias for hiking and fewer crowds?
Late May–June and September offer stable weather, bloom/harvest seasons, and lighter foot traffic.
How many days should I plan for an Asturias “beach mornings, mountain afternoons” trip?
Plan 7–10 days to settle into the rhythm; 5 days is the practical minimum. Browse dates →
